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WHITE WORMS Ryan's warm temperature strain.
Item #1567910085

Current Auction Time: Sat Oct 19 01:03:01 2019

Final: $20.00 First Bid $20.00
Time left 00:00 # of Bids 1 (bid history)
Started Aug 24 2019 - 09:34:45 PM Location Veneta OR 87982 United States
Ends Sep 7 2019 - 09:34:45 PM
Auction Closed
Seller Food (144/146) 101-500
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High Bidder Killiemane (521/522) 500-1000

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Seller assumes all responsibility for listing this item. You should contact the seller to resolve any questions before bidding. Currency is U.S. dollars (US$) unless otherwise noted.


$20(culture) + $8(USPS priority shipping) = $28
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My favorite live food culture are white worms. Of all the things I culture WW account for about half of the live foods I feed my fish. There is nothing tricky about them and they produce enormous harvests year round.

A USPS flat rate box(5-3/8 x 8-5/8 1-5/8"), filled with established culture/medium, and a spoonful of worms. This is enough established medium to make several sandwich contain sized cultures. There will be 100+ worms and an unknown number of egg sacs. Image is a culture similar to the one I take your culture from. I fill the box with the established medium and add a tablespoon of worms from the worm mass. If I have an abundance of white worms, which I usually do, I add more - sometimes a lot more.

FYI: There are a number of unidentified species commonly referred to as white worms, found around the globe, with some of these strains being in the hobby for decades. Not all white worms are the same. This is a temperate strain I have maintained for over a decade in my garage, without any special treatment, and call it 'Ryans strain' to differentiate it from other strains in the hobby.

FYI: I ship a box of 'cycled' medium that is at least three months old. Why? White worms prefer their medium to be organic rich; they aren't picky about what the medium is, but it does take a while before they are comfortable in it. If you place a starter of worms into fresh medium it may stall or whither away over one to three months. By shipping you a small brick of established culture you avoid this.

I find most bagged soil, peat, and cocofiber works well. I use cocofiber but don't recommend it any more than other products. Avoid products where fertilzer or sand is added. These products are all very inexpensive so try several and see which one works best. They like their medium on the wetter side. It may seem odd adding so much water to a worm culture, but in many aspects WW are semi-aquatic and can live completely submerged for weeks - so don't fret about moisture/water.

My worms are fed much like a composting worm. The like bread, cereal, rice, potato, and softened vegetables. I mix my kitchen leftovers in with a bunch of bread and make a slurry of it. I don't include any meat products as that attracts house flies. They require their food to be wet and soft. If something is too hard boil it until softened.

There is a lot of inaccurate information suggesting white worms be kept at temperatures in the lower 60's. The term 'white worm' contains a number of unidentified species & lineages, is found at many locations around the globe, including large portions of the United States, and many strains have been in the hobby for decades. My outside temperatures reach over 100 degrees, with culture temperatures reaching the mid 80's, and I harvest year round. Yes, there are strains that like very frigid temperatures, but NOT ALL WW STRAINS ARE THE SAME. A cool place in your home, something to protect them from excessive heat, is all that is needed for this strain. I live in a western state and keep mine in the garage near the concrete floor. My garage may get hot but the cool floor prevents my culture temperatures from rising excessively. If you live where it's hotter than Oregon, and don't have a location to isolate them from excessive heat, a fan or frozen water bottle during the hottest days will suffice.

Consider this: I culture WW in my garage year round without any special treatment, but can't do the same for many other worms, such as grindal worms. In many aspects WW are much more temperature resilient than grindals and why I prefer them.

Temperature made simple: for best results obtain a strain that is kept at a temperature range you will be keeping them at.

Culture Invaders / Mites:
This is another topic with a lot of innacurate information. Every organism has its parasites, but because it's something easily visible in a WW culture, it gets discussed disaporportanitely. There are very few things that want to actually bite your living worms when there are hundreds available that die naturally every day. Most invaders are more interested in worm wastes - making them useful in important aspects. I've never, in the decade plus I have kept this particular strain had an invader, other than protein consuming flies, that impacted a culture.

If you do have an invader making an impact on your culture you can usually mitigate it...doing something that reduces it's population. For example, taping the container drives the worms into the medium, allowing you to easily remove the top layer of medium. Place that on a plate and the 'mites' will walk out of its. Another mitigation tip is to flood the culture for a few hours to several days - which drowns the invaders but doesn't bother the worms. Many people wrap their cultures in cloth to keep out invaders, but being most invaders start out microscopic in size it's nearly impossible to keep invaders out for any length of time.

Harvesting is easy. Place a plastic deli lid over their food and the worms will crawl onto it. You then dip that into your aquarium.

If DOA I will send a replacement at no cost. Please don't file any claim as that usually adds additional steps for us both - just let me know and I will send another without a guilt trip.

FYI: During shipping, distance isn't a risk factor, neither is temperature - what will kill the culture is sunlight. It's critical the box not be left in your mailbox or sitting at your door. Alert your mail carrier you have a perishable package coming and ask for them to deliver it to your door. Watch for the mail carrier as it may still be placed in the mailbox. I will send a tracking number so you know when to expect it.

White worms are long and can be damaged if the medium is overhandled. Don't stir or rummage through the medium after you receive it.

Don't add in new medium unless it's in small amounts over a period of time. In new medium, the worm population can flounder up to several months, or slowly whither away until it dies. If you want a much larger culture I suggest you keep what I send you as it's own culture, add a starter of worms to the new culture, and allow it time for the worms to become comfortable in their medium.

Add the medium into a couple sandwich, or one shoe box, sized container(s). Medium depth from 1/4" to 1" is good. Poke a couple small holes in the lid with a tac.

I remove moisture from the medium prior to shipping so the medium doesn't leech water. When in their new container add water to a point it's soggy. Don't be affraid if it looks too wet - there is no such thing when it comes to white worms. Make it nice and soggy.

Add a few wet cheerios to the center. If they worms don't gather around it that's okay - they are just finishing consuming the remaining food I add.

Place your new culture in a cool location. They emit no odor so they can be kept just about anywhere without being a disturbance.

Fruit & fungus flies love white worm cultures. They don't harm the worms and are beneficial in some aspects...they are only annoying. My cultures may contain some but they will hatch out. In the past I've openly cultured my worms, but have gone to covered/wrapped cultures, so expect a few but not like before.

For additional culturing content visit my Facebook page and YouTube channel:
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Bid History:

Bidders Bid Time Bid Comments
Killiemane (521/522) 500-1000 Aug 27 2019 - 10:07:23 AM $20.00 BUY IT NOW

Auction is closed

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