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| RUSSIAN RED DAPHNIA Fluorescent light |
| Item #1546383608 |
Current Auction Time: Thu May 9 15:23:15 2024
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Final: | $15.00 | First Bid | $15.00 | ||
| Time left | 00:00 | # of Bids | 1 (bid history) | |||
| Started | Dec 31 2018 - 05:00:08 PM | Location | Veneta OR 87982 United States | |||
| Ended | Jan 1 2019 - 05:00:08 PM Auction Closed |
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| Seller | Food (354/358)  |
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| (View seller's feedback) (view seller's current auctions) (ask seller a question) | ||||||
| High Bidder | Monkeyfish (328/334) |
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| Payment | Money Orders/Cashiers Check, PayPal | |||||
| Shipping | Will Ship to United States Only Buyer Pays Fixed Amount, | |||||
Seller assumes all responsibility for listing this item. You should contact the seller to resolve any questions before bidding. Currency is U.S. dollars (US$) unless otherwise noted. |
PRICE & PAYMENT:
$15(culture) + $8(shipping)= $23 total.
Make payment with Paypal at: ryanthehut@gmail.com
Please don't request an invoice unless vital to you.
75 Russian red daphnia, from a culture kept under fluorescent light, and kept at a minimum temperature of 65 degrees. This is a large daphnia the size of a small pea. I find this species of daphnia the easiest to culture. They ship good year round.
FYI: You can keep what I send you as a functioning & productive culture. Being I ship priority mail, without a weight restriction, I send 2 liters of culture water. I also feed it prior to shipment. So if you retain most of the water, it will support a dozen or two daphnia for several weeks, without needing to be fed. Simply net out most of the daphnia, place them into a small quantity of their water, and transition to their new home. Keep the water that remains, along with a dozen daphnia, and place under strong fluorescent light or on a windowsill. If your primary cultures fail to take you can keep picking daphnia from your mini culture.
FYI: I can include additional daphnia upon request. However, unless you are stocking a pond that has predators in it, you only need a couple daphnia per gallon to get started. Extra daphnia during shipping diminishes the seeding capability of the water and causes them to do an increasingly amount of damage to themselves; the last time I received daphnia i a small container nearly every daphnia perished within the first few days. Also, when starting a new culture, if you add more than a couple daphnia, it makes it harder to feed, and sets the culture up for a nitrate related crash. The amount I send is enough to start dozens of cultures, but if you want more I'd be happy to include them.
The image is a culture identical the one these daphnia come from.
IMPORTANT CULTURING ASPECTS
There are hundreds of species of freshwater daphnia and few people truly know what species they have. Many strains, even when labeled with the same name, are likely significantly different. One species may prefer hard water while another prefers softer water. For best results match up water chemistry and culturing method with the source. Below are details important for a successful startup.
Water: My water is middle of the road in hardness and pH.
Temperature: Heated to a minimum temperature of 65 degrees in winter. The culture is between 65 to 75 degrees.
Lighting: Strong fluorescent for 12+ hours each day. Sunlight is also good, but if other than diffused light, will start impacting temperature excessively.
Feeding: I feed primarily fish tank mulm, cucumber, green water, banana peel, and bugs.
FYI: Some foods straight feed the daphnia, others decay and emit bacteria, and many do both. Tossing a fly into your culture may sound crazy, but as it decays, the bacteria it emits is a great source of food. Many types of food work.
HOW TO START A CULTURE
Daphnia, though easy to culture, are notorious for total crashes while transitioning to new water. Once you have them established in your water they are much more resilient. I highly recommend, in addition to your main culture, you start a few tiny cultures - each with water from a different source. If your primary doesn't take one of the small cultures should.
FYI: I find it easier to start a small culture than something large. When I obtain a new strain I start them in one gallon milk jugs with the top cut off. I start a milk jug with only a couple daphnia, and the jug will grow to a colony of several dozen daphnia.
Steps:
1) Species:
There are hundreds of species of freshwater daphnia/moina and few truly know what exact species they have. Not all daphnia are the same. For best results, start with a strain that is kept in similar water, and cultured using techniques you will use.
2) Vessel:
Create a large primary, but to ensure a successful start, create several small cultures each using water from a different aquarium. If your primary doesn't take one of the small cultures should. Culturing in anything over a few cups is just as easy as something larger. Gallon milk jugs with the top cut off are easy to work with.
3) Water:
You can culture in water straight from an aquarium, some have tap-water good enough to use from the tap, but if you are starting with a new strain its best to start with a cycled tank. Why? Daphnia are very sensitive to nitrates and cycling establishes beneficial bacteria that will reduce nitrates. If you are using water & mulm from an aquarium cycling takes a week or two, and if using sterilized or tap water it takes four weeks.
4) Filtration:
Add a layer of natural gravel and a sponge filter. Aeration isn't required in a tiny culture, but I do recommend a sponge filter with your large primaries. Keep the bubbling to a minimum.
5) Feeding:
The moment you create your culture, before adding daphnia, start feeding. This will establish the bacteria that will reduce nitrates and act as a food source when you do add your daphnia. For a 10 gallon culture lightly powder the bottom with mulm, add a banana peel the size of a business card, and a very thin slice of cucumber. The following weeks add smaller portions. Ultimately, you end up with decaying organic matter in various states of decay, and is rich in bacteria.
FYI: What is mulm? It's the organic debris that collects on the bottom of a tank. In an aquarium it's bad because it produces bacteria, but in a daphnia culture that bacteria is food.
FYI: There are many things you can feed to daphnia - most of it works. I like to feed natural type foods as I find it easier to keep the cultures stable. When people start to make feeding daphnia sound like a science keep in mind a cucumber slice is just as effective.
6) Adding Daphnia:
Your culture is cycled after food has fully decayed and other additions are in various stages of decay. It's then ready for daphnia. For cultures under 10 gallons, add half a dozen daphnia, or one dozen moina. For any large culture you only need a dozen. The reason you start with a limited number of daphnia, in an indoor culture, is they are very sensitive to nitrates. Being daphnia can have multiple offspring daily, if you add too many, they will too quickly populate the culture. That creates a number of different issues.
GUARANTEE:
If DOA I will send a replacement at no cost. If DOA message me and I will get another in the mail.
Distance isn't a factor in shipping - as they will be on a plane. The time a package is vulnerable is when its out for delivery to your home. If the package is exposed to the elements it's likely to perish. It's critical the box not be left in your mailbox. Have somebody home that is prepared to greet your mail carrier.
FACEBOOK PAGE: WHITE WORM MAN
I keep a Facebook page dedicated to culturing. Check in the Photos & Notes section for my pictures & articles. Start at the pinned post.
Facebook page:
White Worm Man
Link: https://www.facebook.com/WhiteWormMan/
I also sell aquarium themed t-shirts. Check my other auctions or the pinned post on my Facebook page.
Bid History:
Bidders Bid Time Bid Comments Monkeyfish (328/334) Jan 1 2019 - 10:06:03 AM $15.00 BUY IT NOW
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