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Dero/Scuds/Daphnia/Cyclops. FS & Guarantee.

Item #1338354675

Current Auction Time: Thu May 9 03:54:35 2024

		Final:	$30.00		First Bid	$29.00
		Time left	00:00		# of Bids	1 (bid history)
		Started	May 29 2012 - 12:11:16 AM		Location	Veneta OR 97487 United States
		Ended	May 30 2012 - 12:11:15 AM Auction Closed
		Seller	Fishyy (199/203)
			(View seller's feedback) (view seller's current auctions) (ask seller a question)
		High Bidder	Indygroomer (51/52)
		Payment	Money Orders/Cashiers Check, PayPal
		Shipping	Will Ship to United States Only Seller Pays Shipping,

Seller assumes all responsibility for listing this item. You should contact the seller to resolve any questions before bidding. Currency is U.S. dollars (US$) unless otherwise noted.

Description

If you�re interested in discussions on live foods and/or killifish join Facebook Group: Killifish USA

Daphnia & Scuds & Dero/Microfex & Cyclops

Why do I culture daphnia, microfex/dero, scuds, and cyclops together? The reason is because they all co-exist happily�so why not. I�ve tried culturing them independently without significant increases in productivity. These four critters not only coexist but are beneficial to each other. The dero worms and scuds are scavengers so help keep the culture clean by eating anything dead. The daphnia, being filter feeders, keep the water quality good. I�ve cultured this way for years without ever losing one culture. If I were to keep only one culture, of all the things I culture, it would be this one due to its productivity and ease.

Auction

You receive:
-100+ daphnia sifted through a net to trap mostly young daphnia.
-Dero/micofex worms. A small amount of �gunk� is taken from bottom of culture which contains worms and their eggs.
-One dozen scuds.
-An unknown number of cyclops.
-Sprigs of aquatic plant and plant friendly snails(if you want a snail free culture you can squish the snails as they show up).

Guarantee

This is one of the best, if not the best, guarantees on Aquabid. There are two aspects to the guarantee. One covers a box showing up DOA, and the other is if your culture fails within the first month.

1) If a box shows up DOA I replace and I pay shipping($0 cost to you) one time. To be clear, if box shows up DOA simply let me know and I put a new one in the mail at no cost to you once.

2) If you are unsuccessful at starting the culture, within one month, I will replace it if you pay shipping($6). To be clear, if you kill off your culture any time in the first month I�d be glad to replace it if you pay $6.

Payment & Shipping

Paypal: killifishes@yahoo.com
Shipping included in auction price. Shipped USPS Priority(small box). A ship date is provided so you�ll have a good idea when the package will arrive at your home(2 to 3 days). Have someone home who can receive the package to ensure the mailman doesn�t leave it in the elements.

CULTURING

Daphnia have a reputation as being difficult to culture. This is primarily due to one reason. Daphnia are extremely touchy about substances like chlorine in tap water. Only use water from an existing fish tank needing a water change. Let the waste from a water change settle to the bottom of the container. Next, pour off the tank water into your daphnia culture. Tap water is okay to use if it has been aged two to five weeks. I don�t use tap water and I don�t have problems with my culture. The cyclops, microfex, and scuds aren�t as sensitive.

A 10 gallon tank or larger: It would have a layer or two of gravel, and then mound that into a little mound. This helps keep the culture cleaner and allows you to suck up the dero worms as they aren�t all hidden in gravel.

Temperature: Room temperature is good. There is no need to use a heater unless the culture is chilly. A heater will speed up the productivity of the culture. Making it too warm will speed it up to a point where it needs to be heavily harvested and vacuumed more often�as organic matter builds up fast.

Maintenance: A culture needs the bottom vacuumed every month or two. Vacuum it like a regular fish tank. Replace the water with water from an existing tank you did a water change on. Let the yucky stuff settle to the bottom and pour off the water into your culture. If the culture is kept warm vacuum every two weeks to month.

Feeding: These daphnia magna are larger and can be fed a variety of foods that the smaller varieties can�t as they are filter feeders. Even if they can�t eat some of the larger particles the scuds, deroworms, and snails make short work of the leftovers. The primariy food I feed are baby foods. You can feed them green water, vegetable baby foods, brewers yeast, wheat flour, and old fishtank water. When starting a culture feed lightly for a week or two as it�s easy to over feed.

Haresting: Run a fish net through your culture and dip that mass directly into your fish tank. It doesn�t matter how much you feed as the daphnia live in the fish tank until unhappily-eaten. Dero worm masses are sucked off the bottom with a piece of airline tubing. Cyclops are captured by scooping water from the side of the culture container. Scuds are captured when harvesting the daphnia.

Pond snails: Snails are optional, but they are useful because their poop contains bacteria for the daphnia, they eat particles of food too large for the daphnia, and help in removing dead organisms. The snails I use don�t bother live plants. I�ve experimented not using snails but the culture does better with.

A pump: This is optional, but is useful in keeping scum off the surface. The surface scum reduces the air exchange between the water and air. If your water doesn�t get scummy there is no need to use it. If used you want air coming out of an airstone very softly as too vigorously will kill the daphnia. I don�t use a pump, and if I see some surface scum I pull it off by dropping a paper-towel onto the surface and removing.

A light: This is optional, and only needed if you are using live plants. I�d recommend the light even if not using live plants to promote algae growth, and for a more balanced water chemistry.

Daphnia have a reputation as being difficult to culture. This is primarily due to one reason. Daphnia are extremely touchy about substances like chlorine in tap water. Only use water from an existing fish tank needing a water change. Let the waste from a water change settle to the bottom of the container. Next, pour off the tank water into your daphnia culture. Tap water is okay to use if it has been aged two to five weeks. I don�t use tap water and I don�t have problems with my culture.

STEP BY STEP DIRECTIONS:
A 10 gallon tank or larger: It would have a layer or two of gravel. It works best if it�s more of a hill of gravel so you have half the tank-bottom bare. This allows you to suck up the dero worms as they aren�t all hidden in gravel.

Temperature: There is no need to use a heater unless the culture is in a chilly room. A heater will speed up the productivity of the culture.

Maintenance: A culture needs the bottom vacuumed every month or two. Vacuum it like a regular fish tank. Replace the water with water from an existing tank you did a water change on. Let the yucky stuff settle to the bottom and pour off the water into your culture.

Feeding: These daphnia magna are larger and can be fed a variety of foods that the smaller varieties can�t as they are filter feeders. Even if they can�t eat some of the larger particles the worms and snails make short work of the leftovers. You can feed them green water, vegetable baby foods, brewers yeast, wheat flour, and old fishtank water. When starting a culture feed lightly for a week or two as it�s easy to over feed.

Haresting: Run a fish net through your culture and dip that mass directly into your fish tank. It doesn�t matter how much you feed as the daphnia live in the fish tank until unhappily-eaten. Dero worms are sucked up with a piece of airline tubing. Cyclops are captured by scooping water from the side of the culture container.

Pond snails: Snails are optional, but they are useful because their poop contains bacteria for the daphnia, they eat particles of food too large for the daphnia, and help in removing dead organisms. The snails I use don�t bother live plants.

A pump: This is optional, but is useful in keeping scum off the surface. The surface scum reduces the air exchange between the water and air. If your water doesn�t get scummy there is no need to use it. If used you want air coming out of an airstone very softly as too vigorously will kill the daphnia. I don�t use a pump, and if I see some surface scum I pull it off by dropping a paper-towel onto the surface and removing.

A light: This is optional, and only needed if you are using live plants. I�d recommend the light even if not using live plants to promote algae growth, and for a more balanced water chemistry.

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Bid History:

Bidders		Bid Time		Bid		Comments
Indygroomer (51/52)		May 29 2012 - 04:46:03 PM		$30.00

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